I love the oatmeal combination recommended in Joy, and I’ve made the spicy version using dark Vermont maple syrup instead of molasses. To vary, look through some old American cookbooks-Fannie Farmer, the original Joy of Cooking-for ideas. Using a sharp knife, cut as many 1/4-inch slices of the dough to make as many cookies as you think you’ll eat up in the next few days, and arrange the rounds with space between on a cookie sheet lined with Silpat or parchment. When you are ready to bake a batch, preheat the oven to 400°. Now wrap the wax paper around the log, and refrigerate for several hours or for as many as 10 days (then if not used up, it should be frozen). Turn the dough out onto a large piece of lightly floured wax paper, and with floured hands form it into a long roll about 1 1/2 inches in diameter (or, if you prefer, form two rolls). Toss the cream of tartar, salt, and nutmeg with the flour, add to the batter and beat until blended. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter. Add the almond extract, crack the egg into the bowl, and mix thoroughly. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt. Spread a line of whipped cream on a serving plate. Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours. Gently roll log in desired topping to coat wrap in parchment. Holding other end of paper at an angle, push baking sheet against log while pulling on paper, creating a smooth, compact log. Spread a ½' layer of whipped cream on each cookie. Fold one short end of paper over log wedge a baking sheet against log. Continue beating until the whipped cream is thickened and stiff peaks form. Once it begins to thicken, add powdered sugar and vanilla. Cream the butter and the two sugars together in a bowl. Beat cream in a large bowl with a hand mixer on medium.
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