![]() This versatile ensemble was designed to provide you with a compact, yet highly proficient means of sanding convex and concave surfaces. A 50 meter roll of 10 cm velcro (you can buy just the hook backing part of the velcro) lasts a very long time so using velcro backing to attach hook-and-loop sandpaper is a very practical solution for me. Introducing the Flexible Contour Sanding Grips Set by POWERTEC. I also have several large drum sanders that require hook-and-loop sandpaper so, consequently, I occasionally have to replace the velcro backing on the sanding drums. This saves a ton of money on buying the packaged sandpaper at the home improvement centers. High density foam sanding block with silicon carbide grit coating that results in fast action sanding ideal for. I buy most of my non-5" sanding disks as long rolls of sandpaper - some plain backed, the rest is hook-and-loop backed. Then I can use hook-and-loop sandpaper on the foam block. Another variation I have good experience with is spraying contact adhesive on a piece of foam and attach a fitted piece of the hook backing part of velcro. This variation will eventually get so many layers of sandpaper built up that it just gets thrown away and a new sanding block is started. This works great for non-hook-and-loop sandpaper. When the sandpaper wears out I just use spray contact adhesive to add another layer of sandpaper. I save the foam packing from mail order purchases, cut it up into something I need then use spray contact adhesive instead of hot glue. This is a nice variation on something I've been doing for years. I don’t know anything about automotive body repair work, but maybe these flexible sanding blocks will be useful for that as well.Įdit 7/10/22: Well, I am doing some door frame repair and repainting in my workshop right now, and what do you know? The sanding blocks are very useful for that job as well :-) When the sandpaper is spend, hot glue on a fresh piece or discard the pad. I have found that the sandpaper does not tear as easily when used this way, and it is a lot easier to use in curved and tight places. concave or convex bottom) to match the curvature of your workpiece before gluing on the sandpaper.Īfter the glue sets, use the sandpaper foam block to sand your workpiece. The sandpaper may extend about a 1/4” beyond the foam pad. Don't use the glue gun tip on the foam, you will probably melt the foam. Use hot glue on the sandpaper, and glue it to the foam pad. 100 grit) a little larger than the foam pad. You're now ready to proceed to preparing the panel for a spot repair, following the process instructions for a basecoat blend.Cut a piece of foam to fit into the spaces you want to sand. If applying basecoat over the Primer Surfacer, final sand Primer Surfacer with the recommended grade paper according to the basecoat color system Product Data Sheet.If applying Primer-Sealer over the Primer Surfacer, final sand the Primer Surfacer with the recommended grade paper according to the Primer-Sealer Product Data Sheet.If any bare metal is exposed, an Etch Primer, chemical metal treatment, or Epoxy Primer is recommended to be applied before additional Primer Surfacer or Primer-Sealer.Re-clean the repair area with a regionally approved surface cleaner.Re-apply guide coat and final sand with P400 grade paper by hand and a foam block or a DA sander and interface pad until the guide coat is removed.Scuff sand all recessed areas and panel edges with a general-purpose scuff pad or equivalent. Featheredged areas should be final sanded with P280-P320 grade paper.Block sand the Primer Surfacer with P280-P320 grade paper using a sanding block until the guide coat is removed. Apply guide coat to identify any low spots, pinholes, or other surface imperfections when sanding a Primer Surfacer.A technician should review a work order to ensure that all parts to be painted are present and repairs are understood.
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